The Ultimate Itinerary for Granada, Spain (for Grownups)

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This travel guide and itinerary for Granada, Spain will help you efficiently explore the best parts of this fascinating city. With practical intel and recommendations, you’ll eat and drink well, find hidden places for quiet moments, and discover things that you won’t find anywhere else in the world. This guide is for people who want to travel well and leave a place feeling fulfilled, rather than exhausted. Sound good to you? Let’s go!

Granada, The Jewel of Andalusia

Granada is the jewel of southern Spain, luring wanderers and free spirits with a rich history, vibrant culture, and bohemian vibe.

Andalusia is one of the most distinctive regions in all of Europe. Moorish heritage and Spanish tradition have intertwined throughout centuries, creating a cultural tapestry that is entirely unique to this corner of the world. A city that smells like jasmine and spices is not easily forgotten.

The Alhambra is the major tourist draw in Granada, bringing 2-3 million visitors each year. And, while you should absolutely dedicate a day to exploring the jaw-dropping palaces and gardens of the Alhambra, there are other areas of the city that are just as rich in culture and history – and all are entirely unique to Granada.

Why this Itinerary?

This itinerary for three full days in Granada will take you through the best parts of the city with opportunities to discover the different cultures that created it along with some experiences you may not have expected to encounter in southern Spain.

Each day will cover a lot of ground but at a relaxed pace. Between all the walking, learning, and visual stimulation, there are opportunities to chill out, relax, and savor your surroundings. You’ll eat well, drink well, and simply travel better.

In addition to practical tips, logistical details, and learnings from mistakes I’ve made, you’ll find specific recommendations for lunch, dinner, teahouses, flamenco, hammam, shopping, and more. I’ll also point you toward a few hidden spots where you can enjoy quiet moments of solitude and sweeping views of the Alhambra without competing with other travelers for photos or personal space.

Efficient Exploration

Of course, you’re free to explore the city as you wish. This itinerary is structured to help you do this efficiently – see and do more in the limited time you have by considering logistical details (business hours, time to get between places, geographic proximity, etc). And, because space to rest and savor your experience is built in, you should leave fulfilled and not exhausted.

The best approach is to use this as a starting point and make adjustments to suit your preferences. Mix and match recommendations, shift activities for weather considerations, or do something else entirely. If you don’t feel like exploring on your own, I suggest highly-rated guided experiences that you can book.

Granada is one of the most impressive and distinct places I’ve traveled to. I want you to experience the many facets of this special place. With this itinerary, you can experience Granada on a deeper level, making the most of your precious time while creating memories for a lifetime.

If you have more than three days, there’s plenty to keep you dazzled in Granada.

Granada Exploration

Map of Recommendations

All of the best tapas bars, restaurants, and places of interest mentioned in this article (and more) are included in this map. This isn’t just a list of places – I’ve also included notes from my experiences and tips from locals to help you make decisions. What’s this place known for? What are the best dishes? What’s the vibe here?

When you’re in Granada, click on the map to open it on your smartphone (with the Google Maps app). Wherever you find yourself, it will help you find great places and get directions. Let my experience and research give you a great starting point for your travels in Granada.

I hope you find this map useful! Your feedback is always appreciated. Drop a comment below!

Where to Stay

The area around Plaza Nueva is my recommendation for the best area to stay in Granada. This is the oldest square in the city and its location is perfectly central – you’ll find yourself passing through here more than once. From this area, you’ll have easy access to Albaicín, Alhambra, and Granada Cathedral – and it makes a good base camp for exploring other parts of the city.

Getting Around

The city center is compact and very walkable, with most sites in close proximity. The Alhambra and Sacromonte areas require significant uphill climbs to reach and using public transportation is recommended. Thankfully, Granada has a good city bus system as well as an electric hop-on-hop-off tourist train that can take you to all the places you want to go. Taxi and rideshare services like Uber and FreeNow are also available and affordable.

Before You Go

Download Mobile Apps

These are the best mobile apps for Granada that will help you travel better. It’s a good idea to download these on your mobile device before you arrive as internet service can be unreliable in some locations.

  • Audio Guides for Granada Cathedral & Royal Chapel
  • City Mapper – iPhone | Android. Plan routes using all available modes of transportation (bus, rideshare, walking, etc.).
  • Rideshare Apps – Uber, FreeNow
  • Google Translate – iPhone | Android. Download Spanish language in advance. Try text-to-voice translation and photos for menu translation.
  • Offline Google Maps. A good idea for any place you’re traveling to.
  • What’s App Messenger – iPhone | Android. Easy and free wifi communication with local tour providers, businesses, etc.

Make Reservations & Bookings

Alhambra Tickets & Guided Tour Arrangements

The Alhambra is one of the most visited monuments in Europe and the only monument of its kind in the world – its popularity cannot be understated. Do yourself a favor and purchase tickets in advance (months in advance if possible) so you aren’t disappointed at the gates.

You want a ticket that includes both the Nasrid Palaces and Generalife Gardens. A limited number of people are allowed in the Nasrid Palaces each day, so these tickets sell out first. After they’re gone, you can only get tickets for the gardens. These are lovely, but the full experience is where it’s at.

For something different (and especially if you’ve already seen the Alhambra in the daytime), consider visiting the illuminated Nasrid Palaces at night on this private tour. Wowza.

The Alhambra complex is huge and multi-layered, with centuries of stories to uncover. To gain context to what you’re looking at and better grasp the significance, a professional guide is essential. A guide can also help you dodge the flocks of overwhelmed tourists wandering aimlessly around the complex.

If you book a guided tour, this will most likely include your entry tickets so there’s no need to purchase them separately. Read the details of your tour to confirm whether entry tickets are included.

You can book an official small group or private tour on the Alhambra website or arrange something independently. This depends on your preferences, but I typically prefer the independent route. In my experience, these tend to have smaller groups and more engaging guides. Here are some highly-rated guided tours of Alhambra you can book independently:

Recommended Reading

Reading and literary enthusiasts should pick up “Tales of the Alhambra” by Washington Irving in advance of your trip. This is the perfect reading companion for your visit to Granada and Andalusia.

This beloved collection of stories and verbal sketches is based on real historical events and will transport you back in time to the world of Moorish Spain. With vivid descriptions and imaginative narratives, these stories capture the magic of the Alhambra, breathing life into the art, architecture, and colorful people who once lived within its walls.

While many books about the Alhambra are worth reading, this one will stimulate your imagination like nothing else.

Article: Washington Irving and the Alhambra

Day 1: Alhambra | Albaicín | Mirador San Nicolas

Your first full day in Granada is all about the Alhambra and familiarizing yourself with the old city. In the morning, you’ll explore the magnificent Alhambra complex, followed by lunch along the River Darro. After an afternoon siesta, walk into Albaicín and catch the sunset at Mirador San Nicolas.

Morning: Alhambra

After a hearty breakfast (you’ll need the energy), begin your day with a visit to the Alhambra, an architectural masterpiece and the crown jewel of Granada and Andalusia. This sprawling complex is best explored on your first day so that you have a greater understanding of its treasures and significance as you will enjoy it from different viewpoints throughout your visit.

You may see people walking to the Alhambra from the city center. While it’s not far in distance, it’s an uphill climb. To save your energy, taking a bus directly from the city center is a good move – buses C30, C32, and C35 (route map) all go to the Alhambra. The fare is €1.40 (buy a ticket on the bus). The electric tourist train is another option (hop-on-hop-off day passes).

Explore the Nasrid Palaces, Generalife Gardens, the Alcazaba fortress, and more. Immerse yourself in exquisite Islamic artistry, serene courtyards, and breathtaking views of the city below.

A complete Alhambra experience will take 3-4 hours. Be sure to book your tickets or guide in advance.

Pro-tip: Bring a refillable water bottle and some snacks. You’ll be doing a lot of walking and need to keep your energy up. The last thing you want is a blood sugar crash in the middle of paradise on Earth. We absolutely ate a block of Manchego cheese from the bottom of my backpack.

Optional: Carmen de los Martires

If you’re up for a little more, Carmen de los Martires is a stately 19th-century home with beautiful, serene gardens that you can visit for free. This is the largest Carmen in Granada with gardens spread across a large plot of land. Within the French, Spanish, and English gardens, there are orchards, flowers, fountains, ponds, peacocks, and leafy, shaded paths. With few visitors, this is a great place to chill out after a busy Alhambra visit.

Carmen de los Martires is a 10-minute scenic walk from the Alhambra-area restaurants listed below. You can also take bus C30, C32, or C35 (route map) from Alhambra or the city center. The electric tourist train also stops here.

Lunch Around Alhambra

After your Alhambra experience, a meal and refreshments will surely be in order.

If you need to eat right away, your nearest options for a good, authentic meal are Restaurante La Mimbre and Restaurante Jardines Alberto, located just outside the Alhambra gates toward the Generalife area. Due to their uber convenient location, you can expect elevated tourist prices but it’s not too bad.

We ate at Restaurant La Mimbre – the food was tasty, the drinks were refreshing, and the service was pleasant but inattentive (like many places in Spain). These garden restaurants are in lovely, shady spots across the street from one another. If one is crowded, try the other.

Lunch Along the River Darro

If you can wait a bit longer to eat, leave the Alhambra area and head downhill to Carrera del Darro where there are several good places to have lunch along the river. Take a little time to explore this picturesque street and its historic architecture, charming bridges, and scenic views.

Here are my recommendations for lunch along the River Darro:

Afternoon: Take a Siesta

The Alhambra is magnificent but all that walking and dealing with crowds of tourists can take a lot out of you – not to mention the mental energy it takes to try and absorb everything you’ve just seen. If you could use a rest, take a siesta! If you’re staying near Plaza Nueva, it should be a quick walk to your hotel from Carrera del Darro.

Don’t need to rest and want to keep exploring? Wander and explore the city center or head to Calle de Elvira.

Evening: Albaicín & Mirador San Nicolas

Introduction to Medieval Albaicín

Albaicín is the historic Moorish quarter of Granada, dating from the 13th-century Nasrid dynasty. The Emirate of Granada (1230-1492) was the last and longest-reigning Muslim dynasty when this region of the Iberian Peninsula was known as Al-Andalus. The city’s history is deeply entwined with this period of the middle ages that left an enduring mark on the architecture and cultural fabric of the city. A treasured UNESCO World Heritage site, this neighborhood is the heart of medieval Granada.

Spend the rest of the afternoon and evening winding your way uphill through the enchanting cobblestone streets, whitewashed homes, flowering balconies, and hidden squares of this seductive neighborhood. Its delightfully disorganized street plan is a wonder to wander through, as you’ll soon discover.

Around sunset, finish the day with a visit to Mirador de San Nicolás for awe-inspiring panoramic views of the Alhambra and Sierra Nevada Mountains.

Calle de Elvira & Calle Caldereria Nueva

Calle de Elvira
Entering Albaicín
Lunch at Puerta de Syria

From Plaza Nueva, connect with Calle de Elvira (5-minute walk). Meander up this narrow, pedestrian-only street lined with restaurants, tea houses, and shops. About 180 meters up, you’ll reach Calle Caldereria Nueva on your right. This picturesque street is known for its tea houses and offers even more places to relax, eat, and shop.

I recommend walking to the end of C. de Elvira to see the Puerta de Elvira (Arco Elvira), the medieval gate into the walled city. Then, backtrack (about 600 meters) to C. Caldereria Nueva where you can explore craft workshops and traditional tea houses before heading deeper into Albaicín.

At peak times, these little streets can get crowded, making it difficult to find the gems among merchants competing for your business. Here are my recommendations for the best, most authentic restaurants, tea houses, and artisanal shops around C. de Elvira and C. Calderia Nueva:

Restaurants

These streets have the largest concentration of Middle-Eastern restaurants in Granada. You can find Moroccan, Syrian, Lebanese, and Palestinian cuisines among others. This is the go-to area for great hummus, falafel, kebab, couscous, tagine, and the like while you’re in town. Keep an eye out for places you might want to return to for lunch or dinner.

If you’re not familiar with Middle-Eastern cuisine, use this as an opportunity to try something new. You can order small portions or samplers that will allow you to taste and share different things. The food will be fresh and flavorful, but not necessarily spicy. You may find your new favorite dish!

Tea Houses

On your way into or out of Albaicín, be sure to pop into a traditional Moorish tea house, a wonderful way to unwind, rest, or enjoy a moment of tranquility. Relax on colorful cushions in an intimate space while sipping tea, enjoying a sweet treat, and smoking shisha if you’re so inclined. Chill out awhile, letting your imagination transport you back in time to Al-Andalus.

Here are my recommendations for the best tea houses in this area. Many of them are open late.

Local Shopping

You’ll notice souvenir shops lining C. de Elvira and C. Caldereria Nueva, many selling similar items – ceramics, lanterns, clothing, textiles, and more. Know that much of the merchandise you’ll find in these shops is imported from Morocco or elsewhere. They are certainly worth browsing and there are gems to be found – just be aware of what you’re looking at and do some comparison shopping before making a decision.

On C. Caldereria Nueva, there are some authentic craft workshops making leather goods, jewelry, artwork, guitars, and more. You may be able to see the artisans working or chat with the proprietor. Handmade, local products make the best souvenirs – an authentic item and memory to treasure.

In addition to the craft workshops, here are two great shops in this area selling locally-made products:

  • Al Sur de Granada (C. de Elvira, 150) – Foodies should not miss this little shop focused on natural wines and sustainably produced foods by small, honest, local makers.
  • Reez (Placita Albaida, 2) – This charming shop is located deeper into Albaicín and is worth seeking out while exploring the neighborhood. You’ll find locally-made glassware, jewelry, and ceramics – all crafted by Albaicín artisans.
Traditional Crafts of Granada
Taracea
Ceramica de Fajalauza

For the most traditional Granada handicrafts, look for these products that can be found inside and outside Albaicín:

  • Taracea is a marquetry decorative arts technique using bone, shells, and mother of pearl. This dying artform has been produced in Granada since the 14th century and this is the only place it’s still produced in Spain. You can find intricate taracea on everything from furniture and chess boards to small, packable boxes. Check that the item you’re interested in is made locally. Artesania Gonzalez (Cta. de Gomérez, 12, near Plaza Nueva) has many authentic taracea items for sale.
  • Ceramica de Fajalauza is the traditional, hand-painted, tin-glazed stoneware that was born in Granada during the 16th century. The original fajalauza artisan workshops were located in Albaicín around Puerta de Fajalauza and you can still find family-owned workshops there. The traditional painted designs often feature birds and plants, especially the symbolic pomegranate (“granada”). Look for the traditional colors of blue (cobalt), green (copper), and purple (manganese).

Mirador San Nicolas

When you’re ready to continue on, walk northeast on C. Caldereria Nueva to climb deeper into Albaicín. It’s a 15-minute uphill walk from here, so be prepared. You’ll likely see groups of people walking along with you. Everyone is probably headed to the same spot – Mirador San Nicolas.

Express Option: To avoid an uphill climb, you can reach Mirador San Nicolas via buses C31 or C32 from Plaza Nueva (route map).

Mirador San Nicolas is the most popular spot in Granada to watch the sunset. Locals and visitors of all ages gather at this viewpoint (“mirador”) to savor the indescribable view of the Alhambra as night falls. They socialize in the open plaza, cuddle and kiss along the stone wall, drink beer, and listen to the sounds of flamenco guitar as the Alhambra begins to glow.

Practical Considerations for Mirador San Nicolas

One hour before through one hour after sunset are the busiest times, though there will be people enjoying the view all day. I recommend arriving 30-60 minutes before sunset and staying at least until the Alhambra is illuminated.

Nearby, the relaxed Restaurante El Mirador San Nicolas has outdoor tables and good food but you cannot see the Alhambra from there. If you want, arrive early and have a drink and a snack there while waiting for the sun to descend. It’s a quick stroll back to the main viewpoint. Of course, prices are elevated due to its location but a few drinks and a snack won’t break the bank. You could also bring a picnic and enjoy it on the stone wall if there’s space.

You’ll notice some upscale restaurants have tables with a front-row seat to the Alhambra (and are probably packed at this time). If you’re following this itinerary, you will have already made a reservation for this experience later in your visit. Tonight is more laid-back, allowing you to absorb the buzzing atmosphere of Mirador San Nicolas among a vibrant variety of people who crossed paths at this place and moment in time.

Mirador San Nicolas is an essential experience in Granada and you shouldn’t miss it. Tomorrow, you’ll discover quieter areas to enjoy sweeping views of the Alhambra.

Nightfall in Albaicín

As night falls, leisurely wind your way through the streets back downhill toward C. de Elvira, taking in the mystical atmosphere of Albaicín. Evenings on C. de Elvira and C. Caldereria Nueva are lovely, as glowing brass lanterns illuminate the narrow streets and buzzing tea houses. Have some tea, dinner, or whatever you feel like. The rest of the night is up to you.

Day 2: Plaza de Bib-Rambla | Sacromonte | Flamenco

Morning: Plaza de Bib-Rambla

Today, you’ll spend the afternoon and evening exploring Sacromonte, a unique neighborhood outside of the city center. How you spend your morning is entirely up to you. If you don’t want to sleep in, this is a great opportunity to enjoy one (or more) of Granada’s charming cafés. A chill morning with coffee, pastry, and people-watching is the perfect way to start this day.

While there are lovely plazas and cafés throughout the city, I recommend heading to Plaza de Bib-Rambla. This historic plaza is buzzing with people, cafés, and plenty of shade. Do as the locals do and have a traditional pastry like pionono or churros con chocolate with your morning coffee. Keep it small – you’ll have a hearty lunch around 1:00 pm.

The Best Cafés in Plaza de Bib-Rambla

Here are my recommendations for the best cafés in Plaza de Bib-Rambla:

Afternoon: Sacromonte Exploration

The Neighborhood of Sacromonte

Perched high on the dusty Valparaiso hillside along the banks of the River Darro facing the Alhambra, Sacromonte is one of six neighborhoods that comprise the greater Albaicín district. Like many places in Granada, being in Sacromonte feels like stepping back in time. Winding stone streets, whitewashed cave homes, unspoiled mountain vistas, flamenco in the air. The ever-present Alhambra shines from every angle.

Exploring Sacromonte offers a captivating journey into the soul of Granada, where the vibrancy of the present intertwines with the echoes of the past, creating a tapestry of cultural richness that is as captivating as it is unforgettable. I loved this place.

Origins of Sacromonte

Nomadic Romani people, also termed “Gypsies” (or “Gitano” in Spanish) first arrived in Granada as camp followers of the Catholic armies that marched on Granada towards the end of the Reconquista. Despite arriving with the Catholics, the Gitano people were marginalized. On condition that they abandoned their nomadic lifestyle and adopted a legitimate trade, they were allowed to remain in Granada. Located outside the city walls, Sacromonte allowed the Gitano to live free from religious and ethnic persecution beyond the control of authorities.

As the 16th century unfolded, Jewish and Muslim communities were forcibly displaced from their generational homes by the Catholic authorities, and Sacromonte became a refuge. These populations mingled with the Gitano who were already living on the hill and adopted some of their traditions, eventually growing into a blended, thriving, secluded community.

The Cave Dwellings

Also seeking shelter from rain and the scorching Andalusian sun, the Gitano carved out multi-room caves into the soft and rocky hillside, creating clusters of cave homes or “Cuevas“. Whitewashed with lime, these affordable, practical dwellings are dry in the winter and cool in the summer.

Extended families occupied the caves that typically had one bedroom, a main living room for eating and cooking, and rooms for sewing or craft-making, food storage, and livestock that lived alongside the family. Many Gitanos earned their living through blacksmithing, basketweaving, pottery, or performing flamenco for affluent residents and tourists in the city center.

Forced to Leave

After four hundred years in Sacromonte, the community was devastated in 1963. Landslides and flooding from months of heavy rainfall resulted in casualties, the collapse of cave homes, and the destruction of infrastructure. As a result, residents were forced to evacuate and Sacromonte’s population swiftly decreased.

While Sacromonte is still home to a number of generational Gitano families, it has never been the same. Today, the neighborhood has a bohemian vibe and attracts artists, intellectuals, and misfits seeking to embrace a quieter, alternative way of life. The stunning Alhambra views aren’t too shabby, either.

Your Day in Sacromonte

This day is all about exploring Sacromonte, immersing yourself in the historic neighborhood of Granada’s Gypsies. You’ll spend all afternoon and evening here, discovering the stories, traditional homes, and musical influence of this special corner of the world and its people. By following this itinerary, you’ll end your day with a flamenco performance in a gypsy cave and a sunset dinner overlooking the Alhambra. How does that sound?

Suggested Sacromonte Itinerary

To make the most of your day in Sacromonte, I’ve built an itinerary that allows you to explore the neighborhood while making time for activities, meals, and refreshments. Most people eat dinner late in Spain (by American standards) and restaurants often close for a few hours in the afternoon. So, while you are free to structure the day according to your preferences, my suggested itinerary accounts for the quirky hours so you won’t find yourself hungry when things are closed.

This itinerary assumes you’ll be traveling when the weather is tolerable to spend time outside (spring is ideal). If the weather is uncooperative or uncomfortable (Sacromonte gets hot in summer), feel free to shift things around – many places are open late. Just know that all of these are worth doing and will enhance your Granada experience – try to hit them all if you can.

Practical Considerations for Sacromonte

Although Sacromonte is a short taxi or minibus ride from town (1.5km), the hilly streets are narrow and winding. This can make finding an available taxi or the closest bus stop challenging. To make things easy, plan to be in Sacromonte all afternoon and evening.

You’ll be doing a fair amount of walking up and down hills (with rest stops, of course) so comfortable shoes are essential. You may want to bring a backpack with a water bottle, a change of clothes/shoes, or toiletry items if you want to stay cool on a warm day or freshen up before the evening’s activities. It’s not necessary to dress up, but staying comfortable throughout the day and evening is important. Check the weather and plan accordingly.

Getting to Sacromonte

Enjoy a leisurely morning in the city center and plan to leave around 12:00 pm. Via taxi or minibus, head directly to the Sacromonte area to start your adventure with a stroll through the gardens of a historic home followed by a traditional Andalusian lunch.

From the city center, minibus 34 (route map) goes to Sacromonte and you can catch it from Plaza Nueva or along Carrera del Darro. The bus runs frequently and the fare is €1.40 (buy a ticket on the bus).

Carmen de la Victoria

Get off the minibus at Cuesta del Chapiz-Peso de la Harina and walk across the street to Carmen de la Victoria. Arrive no later than 1:00 pm (closed daily from 1:30 pm -5:00 pm).

A Carmen (or “Cármene“) is a traditional Albaicín villa built in the Arab style with a high-walled garden and orchard. Many originate from the period of Al-Andalus and have been converted into upscale restaurants and guesthouses, most with incredible views of the Alhambra. As you explore the neighborhood, notice the painted address plaques on exterior walls that hint at the private paradise within.

Carmen de la Victoria is a 19th-century estate constructed on the remains of a convent. Currently owned by the University of Granada as a guest residence, visitors are welcome to explore the gardens during set hours (10:00 am-1:30 pm and 5:00-7:00 pm daily). Entry is free, but you’ll need to ring the bell at the gate and kindly request admission by saying “visita por favor” when the intercom responds.

Your visit will not take long and is absolutely worthwhile. Take a stroll around the lush, manicured gardens, enjoying a few moments of peace and solitude with the Alhambra as a stunning backdrop.

Lunch in Sacromonte

If you want to try tapas, this is a good time since some bars will be closed later. If you’ve spent time in Spain, you know that mealtimes are different than what you might be used to. Many places are open for lunch and dinner and are closed from 4:00 pm – 8:00 pm (roughly), making it difficult to find sustenance in the early evening. In Sacromonte, a few tapas bars stay open in the afternoon to accommodate all-day visitors (check hours). Keep this in mind for later in the evening and use this opportunity to try a few different places.

Sacromonte has a handful of tapas bars and laid-back restaurants, each with its own personality. You can enjoy being inside a cave or outside on a sunny terrace. Preferably, both! Order a house vermouth (“vermut”), local wine, or a small beer (“una caña”), and enjoy the parade of complimentary small bites. You can order large plates (“raciones”) from the menu as well.

Lunch Strategy: Plan Ahead

Keep in mind that after lunch, your destination will be Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte near the top of the hill (Camino del Sacromonte). Note the bus stops for each option – they are listed in downhill to uphill order. You can choose to climb (scenic, steep, and narrow) or let the bus do the work. (Don’t worry about getting your steps in, there will be plenty of hill climbing throughout the day). So, to save your legs, you can choose to head directly to the places at the top of the hill or catch the bus going uphill after lunch for another fare which may be worthwhile. Up to you!

Later in the evening, you’ll have dinner at one of the upscale restaurants overlooking the Alhambra. These restaurants offer local Andalusian dishes but the real draw is the view and atmosphere – this is what you’re paying for. You can make your budget stretch further by having a substantial lunch and keeping dinner light – wine and a few local dishes rather than a full four-course meal. Keep this in mind if you want to be strategic.

Pro-tip: While credit card payment is widely accepted in Spain, remember that these are small, family-run establishments. Consider paying cash when the drinks are cheap and the food is free.

Sacromonte Lunch Recommendations

Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte (Cave House Museum)

Exploring the Gypsy cave homes will give you a deeper understanding of the resilience and cultural richness that defines Sacromonte.

After lunch, walk or take the bus to Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte near the top of Camino del Sacromonte. After ascending the steep stairs at the entrance, you’ll reach a small desk and purchase your museum ticket. The €5 entry fee allows you to walk freely through a series of 11 restored cave dwellings that offer a fascinating glimpse into a bygone era.

The caves have been lovingly transformed into immersive exhibits with furniture and household items, telling the story of the people who once inhabited them. Each cave has a theme, showcasing a different aspect of traditional life. Together, they paint an extraordinary picture of a challenging existence that most of us could scarcely imagine.

The exhibits showcase artifacts, photographs, films, and informative displays that shed light on the community’s history, traditions, crafts, and contributions to Granada’s cultural fabric. The museum does a wonderful job of communicating information, sharing stories and legends, and explaining the context of what you’re looking at. I thought the written displays were well worth the read, adding more color and meaning to the experience.

After touring the cave homes, stop by the shaded outdoor bar for a tinto de verano or other refreshment before heading back down.

Sacromonte Walk

When you exit the museum, do not go all the way back down to where you started. Instead, turn right at the bottom of the museum entrance steps onto Calle Verea de Enmedio and leisurely wind your way towards Mirador Mario Maya (5 minutes).

Adventure option: If you’re up for a slightly longer walk and more hills, take this alternate route (10 minutes). You’ll even pass another small bar along the way (oh darn).

Mirador Mario Maya

When you reach Mirador Mario Maya, settle in for a while. This was my favorite viewpoint because it’s much quieter than Mirador San Nicolas with equally breathtaking views of the Alhambra. There’s a small bar run by a local family where you can get a cold drink while enjoying the view. I loved the chill vibe here.

El Fuente de la Amapola

With your drink in hand (I went for a tinto de verano), walk a few yards to El Fuente de la Amapola (“The Poppy Fountain”), a beautifully adorned community drinking fountain where locals believe true love can be found. The painted plaque translates to, “How I would love to be the neighborhood fountain, for when I walk by and drink I will feel very close to your lips.”

If the weather is comfortable, have a seat on the bench by the fountain and enjoy the moment.

The Gypsy King’s Cave House

Next to the fountain is “Cueva de Chorrojumo“, the cave house where the self-proclaimed “Gypsy King” Mariano Fernández Santiago (“Chorrojumo“) once lived. During the mid-1800s, Chorrojumo was a colorful character who escorted tourists around the Alhambra, telling captivating tales and posing for photographs in exchange for a few coins.

From this point, continue exploring the winding streets of Sacromonte at your leisure. Find more quiet miradors, hidden bars, charming streets, and gorgeous vistas. Aim to arrive at your selected flamenco venue 15-20 minutes before showtime.

Evening: Flamenco Experience & Sunset Dinner

Flamenco in Sacromonte

As the evening arrives in Sacromonte, listen for the sounds of flamenco in the air. The odds are good that you’ll encounter a musician during your exploration of the neighborhood, adding to the romance of this special place. It’s no wonder that Granada has been a tourist hot spot for centuries, drawing people who want to experience this exotic mystique for themselves.

One of the best ways you can experience this is by attending a “zambra” (flamenco) performance in a traditional cave house. For hundreds of years, Gypsy families have earned a living by entertaining visitors from all over the world with traditional music and dance in an intimate cave setting.

While some may view these shows as impersonal touristic experiences, remember that they are authentic cultural expressions packaged for tourist audiences. Can you attend an informal, booze-fueled zambra in a local’s cueva where everyone sings and dances until dawn? No, those generally aren’t for outsiders. But, if you get an invitation, drop everything and go!

Tonight’s show lets you experience one of the world’s most unique art forms performed in the caves where it was born. Pretty cool.

Origins of Zambra & Flamenco

Zambra and flamenco share historical and cultural ties, yet they are distinct variations of music and dance. While both evolved from a fusion of Romani, Moorish, and Spanish influences, flamenco is widely acknowledged to have originated in Andalusia, while zambra is more closely associated with Sacromonte in Granada.

Both zambra and flamenco feature intricate footwork, emotional singing, soulful guitar melodies, and expressive hand gestures. But, zambra places a stronger emphasis on the dance element. Accompanied by live music, the barefoot dancer takes center stage, radiating passionate energy while singing and punctuating the rhythm with hand castanets.

Originally, zambra was an integral part of Gitano wedding celebrations, where families, friends, and neighbors would gather in their caves for fervent displays of song and dance. The familiar and intimate setting of these gatherings is part of what makes zambra so special.

During the mid-18th century, Granada experienced an influx of tourists drawn to its romantic architecture, picturesque landscapes, and the allure of the fabled cave-dwelling Gypsies and their exotic dances. Seizing the opportunity, families organized cave performances for tourist audiences and posed for photographs in traditional costumes.

Today, there are several venues in Sacromonte where you can experience zambra performed in a cave setting.

Zambra Flamenco Experience

Sacromonte has a handful of venues (“tablaos“) that offer zambra performances in a cave setting. While the specific history and performers differ between venues, the experience for tourists is similar. You’ll be treated to soul-stirring music, expressive dancers, and colorful costumes. The cave surroundings are intimate (some more than others) – expect to be squeezed into chairs along a wall with other guests. Sit back and enjoy.

Tickets should be booked in advance to ensure the experience and showtime that you want. Most tickets will include a drink (soft drink, beer, wine), while some venues offer dinner with the performance. Dinner at flamenco venues is generally not recommended, as you’re unlikely to find great food – they’re focused on the performance, after all. There’s better food waiting for you after the show.

For this itinerary, I recommend that you book Cuevas Los Tarantos because they offer a 7:00 pm performance. This allows you to make it to dinner in time for sunset. If this isn’t important to you, feel free to choose any from the list below. Be sure to look at visitor reviews to find the right vibe for you.

These are Sacromonte’s best zambra flamenco performances in a cave setting:

Sunset Dinner with Alhambra Views

Following the show, walk to the restaurant you chose for dinner. Following this itinerary, your reservation should be for 8:30 pm. If you’re visiting in the Fall/Winter, you won’t catch the sunset at this time, but the Alhambra illuminated at night is also spectacular.

Many “Carmen” homes were designed to maximize the view of the Alhambra that the residents could enjoy from their gardens. Now that many of them have been converted into restaurants, this view is available to anyone with a dinner reservation. Don’t miss this chance to savor the glowing Alhambra with someone you love over some great wine and regional dishes.

Most restaurants offer either a fixed-price menu or a la carte dining. Since the views are included with your table reservation, you don’t need to splurge on a huge dinner to have a great experience

Making a Sunset Dinner Reservation

The sunset dinner with Alhambra views is a popular experience for visitors. Here are some things to keep in mind when making a reservation:

  • For this itinerary, make the reservation for 8:30 pm. Otherwise, aim for 30-60 minutes before sunset.
  • Most restaurants offer online reservations, but some may require an email or phone call. If needed, your hotel can probably assist with making a reservation (in Spanish) on your behalf.
  • To deter no-shows at peak times, a credit card may be required to secure the reservation. You will only be charged if you don’t show up.
  • Most restaurants have indoor and outdoor tables available – be sure to specify your location preference when booking.
  • To enjoy direct Alhambra views without other patrons in your way, request a table in the first row (“primera fila”).
  • Calling out a special occasion may help you secure a great table.
Sacromonte Restaurants with Alhambra Views

These are the best restaurants near Sacromonte with Alhambra views (see map for more outside of this neighborhood):

Day 3: Hammam | Market | Cathedrals | Tapas Bars

Morning: Hammam Experience

After a light breakfast, it’s time to escape the modern world and enter Andalusia’s golden era through a traditional hammam cleansing ritual. These rituals not only cleanse the body but also promote relaxation, detoxification, and a sense of rejuvenation. Just what the weary traveler needs.

A Very Brief History of Hammams

Rooted in the ancient traditions of Roman and Byzantine bathhouses, the hammam entered Arabic culture as a place for cleansing and purification before prayer. In the 1400s, hammams grew in popularity around the Mediterranean and North Africa and were commonly found near mosques and medinas throughout the region, including Al-Andalus.

In Al-Andalus, communal bathhouses played a vital role as centers of cleanliness, social gathering, and relaxation. The intricate tile work, domes, and carvings showcase the sophistication of artistic and engineering skill that is mind-blowing for the time. The use of geometric patterns and arabesque motifs is similar to what you’ll find in the Alhambra and other iconic structures in the region.

What is the Hammam Experience Like?

When you step into a hammam from the outside world, you are transported into a sanctuary of physical and spiritual rejuvenation. Your host will welcome you with tea, give you a towel, and lead you to the changing room (separated by gender) where you’ll take a quick shower and change into your swimsuit. Some hammams offer swimsuits for rent or sale, but it’s better to bring your own (I learned this the hard way).

After changing, you’ll enter the communal hammam where both men and women enjoy steam rooms and pools of warm and cold water to begin the purification ritual. You’ll relax in the baths until your service begins, soaking in the atmosphere. For the best experience, follow the recommended circuit of alternating water temperatures. When your host is ready, you’ll be invited into the treatment area for your scheduled service, which (ideally) includes cleansing, exfoliation, and massage. And, certainly, more tea.

Expect to spend around 2 hours at the hammam, from check-in to departure.

Note: My experience is specific to Hammam Al Andalus – others may have different procedures.

Which Hammam Service Should I Book?

Each hammam offers packaged services that complement the Arab bath experience. These can include different types of massage, salt exfoliation, or special oils. The price and duration of your experience depend on the massage and any add-ons you choose. I recommend a package that includes at least 45 minutes in the baths in addition to traditional cleansing, exfoliation, and massage.

Some hammams offer walk-in services, but it’s better to book in advance. You can book online or ask your hotel to make an appointment on your behalf. Booking a few days prior should be adequate, but earlier is best to ensure you can get in at popular times. Hammams are often open late and may offer “happy hour” services at discounted rates outside of peak hours.

There are two basic categories of hammam – local and visitor. The local, community hammams are generally no-frills experiences at a lower price point and may have certain hours reserved for men and women. For the purpose of this article, my recommendations include hammams with some modern comforts that are accustomed to foreign visitors and will make every effort to give you a wonderful, memorable experience.

For this itinerary, a 10:00 am appointment is recommended. This will allow enough time to explore more of Granada’s highlights at a relaxed pace for the remainder of the day.

Best Hammams in Granada

There are several wonderful hammams in Granada that offer traditional services and will welcome you in stunning surroundings:

Service Comparison: Hammam Al Andalus

On a recent trip to Spain, I was fortunate to try two different hammams – one with a friend in Madrid, and another on my own in Granada. These hammams are run by the same company in different cities, each with a distinct personality. The website descriptions weren’t completely clear to this first-timer, so I booked a different service at each location for comparison. I’m glad I did because there was a clear winner.

In the Madrid location, I booked this service that included 60 minutes in the baths, a 15-minute “kessa traditional“, and a 15-minute massage. As it turns out, “kessa” is the exfoliating and cleansing ritual that is essential for the full hammam experience. In Granada, I booked this service that included only 30 minutes in the baths and a 60-minute massage. I didn’t get the cleansing and exfoliation and was disappointed. I had assumed that every service included this, but now I know better. And, so do you.

The lesson? Make sure you read the service descriptions carefully before booking and look up any unfamiliar terms.

Have you experienced a hammam in Granada or Andalusia? What was it like for you? Drop a comment below!

Noon: Granada Cathedral & Royal Chapel

Granada Cathedral

After an invigorating hammam experience, you should feel like a million euros. Freshen up at your hotel then make your way to Granada Cathedral.

Granada Cathedral, also called Cathedral of the Incarnation, is a Renaissance masterpiece that symbolizes Granada’s Christian heritage and is part of the complex history that shaped the city. The cathedral was commissioned by Queen Isabella in the 16th century following the Spanish conquest of Granada which ended Islamic rule. Like many Christian churches built in Spain during this period, it was constructed directly on top of Granada’s primary mosque.

The cathedral’s design combines Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements, making it a fascinating architectural study. Inside, you’ll find an impressive collection of religious artworks and artifacts, including masterpieces by renowned Spanish artists such as Alonso Cano and Diego de Siloé. The bright interior and glittering blue and gold dome are a wonder to gaze upon.

Plan to spend 30-45 minutes exploring the Cathedral.

The Royal Chapel

After touring the Cathedral, head to the adjacent Royal Chapel.

The Royal Chapel is the final resting place of famed Catholic monarchs Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand II, as well as King Philip I, Queen Joanna I “The Mad”, and infant Miguel da Paz, Prince of Portugal. Inside above ground, decorative mausoleums represent the royals’ earthly likeness. In the crypt below, their lead coffins are on display in a surprisingly simple space.

Inside the chapel, admire the architecture and artistry of the temple, main altarpiece, grilles, and sculptures from different artistic periods. A small museum houses religious artifacts and artwork from Queen Isabella’s personal collection.

Plan to spend 30-45 minutes exploring the Royal Chapel.

Get Tickets & Audio Guides

You can choose to do a self-guided tour or book a guided tour in advance. This is entirely up to you, but I recommend doing a self-guided audio tour with a combined ticket that includes Granada Cathedral and the Royal Chapel. Currently, combined adult tickets are €10 and children are free.

Note: If you plan to visit the Monasterio de Jeronimos later in the afternoon, you could purchase a ticket that includes this site as well.

You can buy tickets online or onsite at the reception desk, though booking in advance will guarantee your date/time and is recommended for peak travel seasons. When booking online, you will be asked to select a date either morning or afternoon time slot for each monument (slot times vary). Granada Cathedral and the Royal Chapel are located together so you can visit both during the morning.

Your ticket includes an audio guide that you’ll access through a mobile app. There are different guides for adults and children. If you have earbuds, bring them. On my visit, cellular service inside the cathedral was terrible and I wasn’t able to download any apps. Don’t be like me – download the apps in advance so you don’t miss out.

Audio Guide Mobile Apps: Granada Cathedral
Audio Guide Mobile Apps: Royal Chapel

Lunch: Mercado de San Agustín

After touring the cathedral complex (or before if you prefer), walk to Mercado de San Agustín (2 minutes) to discover Granada’s vibrant food scene. Plan to arrive no later than 2:00 pm.

Built on the site of a 16th-century convent, Mercado de San Agustín is an energetic, buzzing covered market that plays a significant role in the city’s culinary landscape. Established in the 19th century, the market has been a hub of commerce and gastronomy for generations of locals and visitors.

Here, you’ll find an impressive array of fresh produce, regional delicacies, and local specialties that you can buy and sample from around 60 independent vendors. From fresh fruits and vegetables to artisanal cheeses, meats, and seafood, the market showcases the bountiful offerings of Granada’s fertile region.

For lunch, you can purchase fresh fish from a seafood stall and have it cooked to order (usually grilled or fried). For tapas, visit La Picatería for vermouth, grilled meats, local olives, and more. There are plenty of spots where you can order from a menu. Or, if the weather is nice, buy picnic provisions to enjoy in Plaza Romanilla. Whatever your vibe, you’ll eat well here.

Mercado de San Agustín is open Monday-Saturday 9:00 am-3:00 pm. Closed Sundays.

Afternoon: Self-Guided City Walking Tour

After your lunch at Mercado de San Agustín, it’s time to explore the city center a little more. The good news is that the city center is compact, allowing plenty of room for spontaneity and surprises along the way.

La Madraza

From Mercado de San Agustín, walk to Palacio de la Madraza (5 minutes).

Established in 1349, La Madraza was Granada’s first Islamic university teaching theology, medicine, law, astronomy, mathematics, logic, and mechanics. It is the only major university known to have been built in Al-Andalus, establishing Granada as a center of higher education that continues to this day.

Built during the 14th century by Yusuf I, the building was an architectural wonder and work of art. The white marble exterior surrounded a courtyard with a central pool and classrooms around the perimeter. The arched entryway was decorated with carved inscriptions of poetry and philosophy that included these words (translated): “If in your spirit you provide a place for the desire to study and to flee from the shadows of ignorance, you will find in it the beautiful tree of honor. Make study shine like stars to the great, and to those who are not, bring to them the same brilliance.”

After the Reconquista, the school was closed and the contents of the library were publicly burned in Plaza de Bib-Rambla. The Spanish rulers converted the building to a Cabildo (city hall) and modified the structure, adding rooms designed in the Mudejar style, similar to some that you’ll find at the Alhambra. In 1722, the building was demolished and almost completely rebuilt in the Baroque style that you see today. Only the old prayer room with the mihrab has been preserved and restored to its former grandeur.

The building has changed hands several times, finally becoming part of the University of Granada in 1976. It now serves as the University’s Center for Contemporary Culture.

It’s worth the €2 fee to enter the original prayer room.

Alcaicería

From La Madraza, walk southwest alongside the cathedral in the direction of Plaza de Bib-Rambla. In just a few meters, you’ll encounter the Alcaicería market.

The Alcaicería was Granada’s original grand bazaar, founded in the 14th century in the time of Muhammad V. Located to the southwest of the main mosque (now Granada Cathedral), the Alcacería covered an area of almost 50,000 sq ft. Owned by the Nasrid rulers, the market sold silk and other high-end goods and was guarded and locked at night.

Following the Spanish conquest of Granada, the market continued to operate and, by the 16th century, it had almost 200 small shops. During the 17th century, silk, cloth, linen, and other goods were sold here. In 1843, the entire neighborhood was almost completely destroyed by fire. After this, the market was rebuilt on a much smaller scale.

What you’ll find today is nothing compared to the original. Today’s market sells crafts, nativity scenes, miniatures, and a million other things to tourists. There may be a few gems, but better quality local handicrafts can be found in the city. Have a look if you want to or keep walking.

Plaza Romanilla

From Alcacería, walk in front of the cathedral or through Plaza de Bib-Rambla towards Plaza Romanilla (4 minutes).

Plaza Romanilla is a lovely square lined with towering palm trees. It’s a wonderful and lively place to enjoy una caña or tinto de verano on a terrace with Granada Cathedral towering above.

In the center of the square, the bronze statue of a man and his donkey commemorates the “aguadores”, men and women from the countryside who came to the city to sell fresh water to local residents. In Granada and throughout Andalusia, this was an important profession and essential service that operated from the middle ages to the mid-20th century. The aguadores are remembered fondly in local lore and mentioned frequently in Tales of the Alhambra.

Basilica de San Juan de Dios

From Plaza Romanilla, head to Basilica de San Juan de Dios (10-minute walk). I think this is the most beautiful church in Granada and one of the city’s best-kept secrets.

Dripping with pure gold, intricate woodwork, marble, frescoes, and religious artifacts, the interior of the Spanish Baroque basilica is utterly magnificent. For even more brilliance, drop a euro in the box near the altar (or wait for someone else to).

The basilica was built in the mid-1700s to house the remains of Saint John of God (San Juan de Dios) which are kept in a solid silver urn that you can examine up close. Some personal objects of the saint and other Christian relics are also on display. I’ve seen a lot of beautiful churches in Europe, but nothing like this. Holy wow.

The €7 entry includes a helpful audio guide and a new virtual reality (VR) experience. You can explore freely, following the suggested path. There were few other visitors when I went, making the experience quite pleasant. Whether or not you’re religious, this is absolutely worth a visit.

Pro-tip: Your ticket includes a light show inside the basilica daily at 6:30 pm (let me know how this is!)

Basilica de San Juan de Dios is open to visitors Monday-Saturday 10:00 am – 7:00 pm and Sunday from 10:00 am – 12:00 pm and 1:30 pm – 7:00 pm. Hours may change, check the website before your visit.

Monasterio de Jerónimos

I had intended to visit this monastery but accidentally entered the nearby Basilica de San Juan de Dios. My mistake turned out to be a fabulous one (see above), but I never made it to my original destination. Honestly, I couldn’t find the entrance and it may have been closed. I hope you have better luck!

Commissioned by Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella in the 16th century, the Monasterio de Jerónimos was built as a residence for Hieronymite monks who played an important role in the religious and intellectual life of the region. The monastery’s construction took several decades, and its impressive architectural style reflects a blend of late Gothic and early Renaissance influences. The monastery has witnessed a tumultuous past, surviving the turbulent times of the Spanish War of Independence and later repurposed as a military barracks. Today, it stands as a cultural heritage site, inviting visitors to explore its well-preserved courtyards, chapels, and historic artifacts.

The Monasterio de Jerónimos is open to visitors daily and hours vary by season. Check the website before your visit.

Entry is €5 and includes an audio guide (mobile app). Tickets may be purchased online and combined with a ticket for Granada Cathedral and the Royal Chapel.

From here, the evening is yours until tapas time (most bars open at 8:00 pm).

Guided City Tours You Can Book

If you prefer to explore the city center with a professional guide, there are a number of small-group and private tours you can book. Here are a few highly-rated options:

Evening: Tapas Bar Crawl

So, How Does Tapas Work?

If you do nothing else in this itinerary, do a tapas bar crawl. Tapas culture is an essential experience and daily pastime throughout Andalusia and much of Spain. So, what are tapas and how does it work?

Tapas are complimentary small plates of food served with a drink, typically vermouth, local wine, or a small beer (una caña). In most tapas bars, you’ll be given a snack (potato chips, olives, nuts) when you first arrive. As you order more drinks, the free-flowing tapas will get better and more substantial. Most dishes feature fish or meat, though vegetarian options can be found.

Each bar has a different personality – the food, service, atmosphere, crowd, and quality level vary from place to place. The best approach is to stay a little while at each bar, soaking up the vibe. Order a few drinks, eat a few tapas, and move on to the next one. Don’t plan to eat dinner afterward, you’ll be plenty satisfied. The tapas experience is all about surprise, variety, and being social. Foodies and first-time visitors to Spain will be delighted by this fabulous custom.

Tapas offerings and specialties vary from bar to bar, so hopping to several different places will let you try a variety of dishes. In Granada, try regional specialties like Jamón de Trevélez (local cured ham), queso montefrieño (goat cheese), albóndigas (meatballs), and salmorejo (gazpacho variation). If you want something more substantial, you can order “raciones” (large plates) at menu prices.

Tapas Bar Recommendations

Here are my recommendations for the best tapas bars in Granada within walking distance of each other (more on the recommendations map):

  • Bodegas Castañeda (C. Almireceros, 1-3) – Authentic, try “Calicasas” house drink and mixed charcuterie board
  • La Trastienda (Pl. de Cuchilleros, 11) – Cozy vibe, friendly staff, good vermouth on tap
  • Los Manueles (historic local chain) – Local favorite
  • La Gran Taberna (Plaza Nueva, 12) – Authentic, local vibe
  • Bar Los Diamantes (Plaza Nueva, 13) – Fried fish and seafood tapas
  • Bar Casa Julio 1947 (C. Hermosa, 5) – Small, classic tapas bar
  • Bar La Riviera (C. Cetti Meriem, 7) – Cozy and local, large beer selection
  • Restaurante la Blanca Paloma Centro (Plaza Escudo Del Carmen) – Fried fish and eggplant specialties

Tapas is generally a social activity, made for a group night out. If you’re traveling solo, consider booking a tapas bar crawl that will bring you to the best bars with plenty of lively conversation. Here are two highly-rated tapas bar crawls in Granada:

And, there you have it – the ultimate itinerary for Granada, Spain. I would love to know your feedback on anything mentioned in this article. Drop a comment below!

Happy exploring, friends! 🙂

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