Colorado’s San Juan mountains are situated in the southwest corner of the state and are home to stunning natural scenery, historic mining towns, and plenty of thrilling backroad trails that will leave you exhilarated.
In September 2020, when the pandemic was in full swing, my husband and I were in desperate need of a change of scenery. Sadly, our annual fall trip overseas was not going to happen for obvious reasons. Instead, I planned an epic 2 1/2-week road trip through Texas, Colorado, and New Mexico. Have masks, will travel! Let’s go.
Hitting the Million Dollar Highway
We took off from Austin, Texas in our Kia Forte and headed northwest. We passed through Lubbock, Amarillo, Santa Fe, Taos, Pagosa Springs, Durango, and Silverton – arriving in Ouray, Colorado on Day Eight via the famous “Million Dollar Highway”.
The Million Dollar Highway is a 25-mile section of the San Juan Skyway that is widely considered one of the most spectacular drives in America. Driving this particular stretch of road between Silverton and Ouray is an experience in itself – steep drops, narrow lanes, jaw-dropping gorges, mountain scenery, and no guardrails. It takes about 45 minutes to drive it one way and you would be nuts to do this in inclement weather. Thankfully, September is beautiful in Colorado – we drove it up and down at least five times. So much fun!
Approaching Ouray, you’ll pass by the “Switzerland of America” lookout point with a stunning mountain backdrop and a view of the town below. Descending via a final series of hairpin switchbacks, you’ll roll right onto Ouray’s main street.
Ouray, Colorado: Jeep Capital of the World
Ouray is a charming, turn-of-the-century town that sits in a valley surrounded by Alpine-esque mountains and feels tucked away from the rest of the world. There are natural hot springs, an abundance of nature trails, quaint restaurants, breweries, inns, and lots of friendly, nature-loving folks. From Ouray, you can head off in any direction for a day of outdoor adventure – it’s the perfect base for exploring the area.
We chose the family-run Black Bear Manor B&B as our home base for four nights.
Ouray is known as the “Jeep Capital of the World” – and for good reason. There are over 500 miles of rugged and breathtaking mountain roads in the area and no better way to experience them than in a rough-and-tumble Jeep Wrangler. Impossibly narrow passes, steep and rocky inclines, old mining roads, and tight switchbacks require a special vehicle to navigate safely and enjoyably. Our Kia Forte sedan was certainly not going to cut it.
Old Roads, New Vehicles
This network of roads was carved by mining pioneers in the late 1800s to enable them to transport ore (silver, gold, lead, and zinc) and supplies by mule-drawn wagons. While the mines are now closed, the roads remain and are maintained by the Federal Bureau of Land Management (BLM), the US Forest Service, and local enthusiast groups.
Traversing these backroads in a Jeep will bring you up close and personal with nature in a way that regular vehicles just can’t. Mountain passes, babbling brooks, historic mining sites, ghost towns, wildlife, groves of Aspen trees, and fields of wildflowers. You will have some company with other vehicles, but plenty of solitary moments as well.
Renting a 4-Wheel-Drive Vehicle
A 4WD vehicle with plenty of clearance is necessary for these mountain trails – a Jeep is ideal. Luckily, if you don’t already have a proper 4WD vehicle, they are easy to rent. There are several companies in the area that rent Jeeps in hard-top and soft-top styles. Make your booking online in advance as this is a popular activity.
We chose Switzerland of America Jeep Adventures and their 2-door Sport soft-top model. At the time, the cost was about $275/day. This may seem steep, but considering the experience you’re about to have and the demand for rentals, this made sense to us and we thought it was worth every penny.
Plan Your Routes
We were able to pick up the Jeep the evening before so we could get an early start on the next day’s adventures. I recommend planning your routes with specific trails and towns you want to hit. The area covers a lot of ground and you’ll have the best experience with a plan in mind.
While I had plotted a rough itinerary for each Jeeping day, we discovered that signage issues or other variables can make finding trailheads and turnoffs difficult. I highly recommend picking up this guidebook before you head out in search of trails. We borrowed a copy from our B&B and it was a lifesaver, especially since GPS and cell service are often unavailable on the trails.
At the very least, print out this map and take it with you.
A First-Timer’s Perspective
This was our first time doing anything like this. While we love being in the mountains and nature, we aren’t big outdoor adventurers or weekend warriors. When traveling, we enjoy motorized activities and have been skydiving, hang gliding, and paragliding. But, these are all guided and “assisted” pursuits that don’t require a lot of skill or planning to enjoy.
For this experience, you’re on your own – and this is part of the thrill. Armed with the right off-road vehicle, confident driving skills, a map/guidebook, and a sense of adventure, you will be challenged and exhilarated. If this sounds appealing to you, don’t hesitate to put this adventure on your bucket list. Looking for fun things to do in Colorado? Here ya go.
There are a good amount of online resources that can help you plan a backroads itinerary that fits your time, budget, and desired level of difficulty. There are some advanced trails that we didn’t attempt and don’t recommend for first-timers (e.g. Black Bear Pass) – these are no joke. I loved the variety of landscapes that we were able to cover – blue streams, red mountains, green meadows, and plenty of breathless, white-knuckle moments.
If you’d prefer a less independent option, there are several guided group and private Jeep tours you can book. Your experienced driver will take you on a variety of stunning, exhilarating trails on a half-day or full-day experience. All you have to do is enjoy the ride. Go ahead, conquer Black Bear Pass!
Backroad Driving Considerations
You will be navigating rocky dirt and gravel trails with narrow switchbacks, shelf roads with steep drops, and blind curves. It’s important to “Stay the Trail” and not try to go off-road in search of further adventure as this could be dangerous for you and harmful to the fragile landscape.
Expect to drive slowly and anticipate oncoming vehicles. Uphill traffic has the right of way, but there are many one-lane, two-way roads. Even with the right of way, there will be times you need to back up or wait for another vehicle to pass. Pay attention, have common sense, be courteous, and use your lights or hand signals to communicate with other drivers.
This is a popular destination for Jeeping clubs, so you’ll often encounter groups of vehicles traveling together. If you see a group headed in your direction, it’s best to pull off at a wide point and enjoy the scenery while you wait for them to pass.
Please familiarize yourself with the rules and proper trail etiquette before heading out.
Here is our independent 3-day Colorado Jeeping itinerary with highlights and practical tips:
Day One – Alpine Loop Scenic Byway
If you only have one day to explore the trails, do the Alpine Loop. This is a scenic 65-mile drive that travels through some of Colorado’s most picturesque landscapes – rugged mountain passes, crystal clear streams, and vibrant wildflower meadows. It follows the original routes of historic mining roads that were built through rugged terrain in the late 1800s around Ouray, Silverton, and Lake City to transport ore and supplies by mule-drawn wagon.
Here’s a good map you can print out.
Approaching the Alpine Loop
I recommend starting early in the day and allowing 7 hours for the entire loop. You’ll be traveling slowly (under 10mph) and there will certainly be other vehicles on the trail that will slow you down even further. Plan accordingly so you’re not on the backroads at sundown.
You can start the loop in either Ouray, Lake City, or Silverton, though starting in Silverton and traveling clockwise is the traditional route. Going in this direction will ensure that you’re following the general flow of traffic and climbing the switchbacks of Engineer Pass rather than descending them when the time comes (if you choose to attempt it).
We departed from our home base of Ouray and headed south down the Million Dollar Highway (US 550) to connect with the Alpine Loop and our first trail, Corkscrew Gulch.
The Corkscrew Gulch Warm-Up
After some missteps with signage, we found the trail and quickly got our first taste of rugged mountain terrain and a crash course in 4WD driving skills. This turned out to be the perfect starter trail with opportunities to practice switchbacks, deal with oncoming traffic, and generally familiarize ourselves with the vehicle and its capabilities.
Mountain Passes
Continuing on, drive through the impressive Hurricane Pass and follow signs to California Pass where you can enjoy the wide open mountain scenery and marvel at the twisting trails that lay ahead. This is a great spot to pull off and take photos while stretching your legs. You’ll find other folks here doing the same thing – if you have any questions about these trails, driving matters, or want to swap stories, this is a good opportunity to chat with fellow drivers.
The Alpine Loop summits two mountain passes – Engineer Pass and Cinnamon Pass – with much of the road above the tree line. Engineer Pass is the most difficult section of the Alpine Loop, requiring more skill than other four-wheel drive trails in the area. Novice drivers should carefully consider whether to proceed – once you’re on it, there’s no turning back.
Although unintentional, we skipped Engineer Pass by taking the turn south toward Animas Forks and Cinnamon Pass instead. Signage can be a little tricky as the “Alpine Loop” is not a circle. Once again, having a trail guidebook with you is highly recommended.
Animas Forks Ghost Town
At Animas Forks, stretch your legs and check out one of America’s best-preserved ghost towns. You can explore freely, walking through historic cabins and imagining what life was like under harsh conditions for mining families in the late 1800s. There’s a parking area, restrooms, and picnic tables. We enjoyed a blanket picnic here under a tree by the stream. Simply lovely.
American Basin & Cinnamon Pass
Now traveling counter-clockwise towards Lake City, the spectacular American Basin will open up in front of you. In spring and summer, this is the best place to see wildflowers. This also makes a good stopping point for a picnic, photos, or a “Sound of Music” moment if you’re so inclined. Enjoy, but be careful not to disturb the fragile landscape – don’t park off the trail or pick the flowers. Treat this area with respect so it can be enjoyed for generations to come. Since we were here in September, there were no wildflowers in bloom. Keep this in mind when planning your trip.
After passing through American Basin, you’ll engage 4WD and begin the climb to Cinnamon Pass. Passing old mining shafts and ruins, you’ll reach the summit at 12,600 feet then begin the descent towards Lake City.
In Lake City, you can grab an ice cream at San Juan Soda Company or decompress with a pint at Lake City Brewing Company. We chose to make our way back to our home base of Ouray via Ridgeway. It was time to debrief this extraordinary day over dinner and local beers.
Prepare Accordingly
The Alpine Loop is a true off-roading paradise, offering challenges for experienced drivers and awe-inspiring scenery for nature lovers. In addition to the primary Alpine Loop, there are miles of side trails that you can explore. Many online resources are available to help with planning your routes. Here is a good map you can print out.
Be sure to pack plenty of food and water (enough for 2 days in case of emergency), sunscreen, and warm clothing in case of sudden weather changes. Bring a blanket and picnic lunch to enjoy in a quiet spot among the mountains. There are even a few spots you can swim (Whitmore Falls), so bring a swimsuit if you’re into that.
If inclement weather is expected, pack more food and water in case a road becomes impassable and you’re stranded in the backcountry for an unexpected overnight. If you have a flat tire or engine breakdown, you’d be at the mercy of a helpful passerby and may have to wait a long while for assistance, especially late in the day. While unlikely, it’s best to be prepared.
Duration: Allow 7 hours
Best Time: May-October. July is the busiest month when wildflowers are in full bloom. Roads may close at the first significant snowfall. Check the weather and road conditions before heading out.
Day Two – Ophir Pass, Alta Lakes, Telluride
With the adrenaline still pumping from the previous day – and feeling quite accomplished – we started Day Two early. After breakfast at the B&B, we swung through Ouray’s main street to pick up snacks, drinks, and picnic provisions from a few small markets. Then, we rolled back the soft top and headed toward Silverton to hook up with Ophir Pass for a new adventure.
Heading south from Ouray down the Million Dollar Highway (US 550) past Ironton and Red Mountain, the turnoff to Ophir Pass is well marked.
Ophir Pass
Most areas along Ophir Pass are wide enough for two-way traffic, but there is a stretch of about a mile below the summit that is narrow with loose rock. In this section, we found ourselves completely alone with no other vehicles in sight. The slippery shale beneath the tires would shift and slide as we descended the mountain at a snail’s pace. The shelf road had maybe six inches of space between our left tires and a steep dropoff. Our mothers would not have approved.
Seemingly out of nowhere, we see another car approaching in the opposite direction. Uphill vehicles have the right of way, but there was no way to let them pass. The other driver wasn’t particularly courteous, so we had to reverse back up the hill we just descended to let them pass. Then, we descended all over again. Needless to say, we were a bit breathless after this. Got that adrenaline pumping, though!
Now bursting with exuberance and accomplishment at what we just conquered, we rolled our Jeep through the tiny town of Ophir toward Alta Lakes.
Alta Lakes
Alta Lakes are a series of small alpine lakes near the ghost town of Alta. From these lakes, you can see Bald Mountain, Silver Mountain, and Telluride Ski Resort. Located within the Uncompahgre National Forest, this is a great area for camping, fishing, and hiking during the warmer months. Connected with the Gold King Basin mining area, the town has a rich mining history and many of the structures are still standing.
After ascending the trail (which seemed easy at this point), we parked and explored the area for a couple of hours. This is a fairly popular place with few facilities so prepare accordingly. You can walk around the lakes, explore the mining ruins, or use this as a base for deeper adventures.
Telluride
Exiting the trail, we were back on paved roads and headed to Telluride. The area is beautiful, surrounded by mountains, lush landscapes, and aspens bursting yellow. And of course, mansions of the rich and famous with their multi-million dollar views.
This was our first time in this little town and rolling down its manicured main street felt like another world compared to where we had just been. As cute as it is, we weren’t prepared to be among this crowd of people having been in the mountains for two days, feeling connected with nature. Before real anxiety took hold, we got hot dogs from a street vendor and left. Perhaps we’ll try it another time.
Leaving Telluride, we decided to head back via Last Dollar Road and Dallas Divide, hoping to catch more trails near our home base before sundown.
Jeep Trails Near Ouray
Easily accessible from downtown Ouray, a wonderful section of trails lies just past Canyon Creek and the Camp Bird Mine. Follow the signage to explore Governor’s Basin, Yankee Boy Basin, Sidney Basin, Siwer Basin, and more. This is also the way to Imogene Pass, a difficult trail that we only had time for a small portion of this trip. Next time, we will conquer it.
As it was late afternoon, we didn’t see any other vehicles and were able to explore Governor’s Basin and Yankee Boy Basin freely, driving through creeks and over steep rock formations, simply having a ball. The light was stunning, giving the surrounding mountains a gold and purple glow. I took so many photos, trying to capture the magic. You just have to see it for yourself.
The only time we saw another vehicle, a young woman had just parked her SUV and was getting ready to hike up the mountain with a backpack. As it would be getting dark soon, we chatted her up and found out she was headed to a “hotel” about three miles up the mountain. Um, what? Though she seemed like an experienced hiker, she was definitely not prepared to conquer a mountain in the dark. We offered her a ride up as far as we could take her – and it was a blast. We parted with smiles and gratitude.
Back in Ouray, it was again time for beers and grub. What a day.
Day Three – Just Messin’ Around
Though we had originally rented the Jeep for two days, we were having so much fun that we called and asked for a one-day extension. Thankfully they had availability and we could keep our vehicle for another day of adventure.
We used this time to explore other trails in the area at a relaxed pace. Over the course of the day, we drove Red Mountain, Mineral Creek, and Minnie Gulch.
There are many trails like these that are less traveled by other 4WD enthusiasts, offering more solitude than you’ll find on the more difficult and popular routes. Bring a picnic and have some fun!
These few days in the “Switzerland of America” turned out to be one of our most beloved and memorable adventures yet. A welcome reminder that you don’t need to travel far to experience the thrill of adventure and the beauty of unspoiled nature. As Americans, we are incredibly lucky to live in a country with vast, protected landscapes to escape the noisy world we live in. Proof that travel adventures can be found in your own backyard if you go looking for them.
TIP: Ladies, wear a sports bra. Things will get bumpy!