A Brief History of Gin in London
London has a deep-rooted relationship with gin, a spirit that has been savored in the city for centuries, for better or for worse. Get to know this storied spirit and some fun and unique ways to enjoy it – on a vintage double-decker bus, perhaps?
Originally used as a medicinal tonic, gin’s popularity surged in the 18th century when the French stopped exporting their cheap brandy to Britain. To appease the thirsty working class, the distilling of a relatively unknown spirit called ‘gin’ was openly encouraged. Unlike beer which was highly taxed, the government removed taxes and applied zero regulations on the production and sale of gin. Cheap, low-quality booze and miserably poor people – what’s the worst that could happen?
The ‘Gin Craze’ Sets In
The stage was set and gin’s popularity rose quickly – the “Gin Craze” was on. Historic records indicate that the average Londoner was consuming a half-pint of gin per day. By the 1750s, there were said to be at least 7,000 ‘dram shops’ throughout London, distilling up to 10 million gallons of the stuff each year.
Of course, chaos ensued. Violence, robbery, and widespread addiction became part of everyday life in London. There was also a significant shift in drinking culture during this period as women were allowed to drink alongside men for the first time. As more women became hooked on gin, this led to the mistreatment of their children and a rise in prostitution, hence gin’s nickname “Mother’s Ruin”.
Road to Recovery
Order was eventually restored through a series of government acts that introduced high taxes, licensing regulations, and severe penalties for anyone not conforming to the new rules. These new standards brought an end to back-alley gin production and Londoners were eventually encouraged to enjoy quality gin sensibly and legally. By 1757, the Gin Craze was over.
Despite its rocky past, gin has played a significant role in shaping the history and culture of London. Today, gin remains a beloved drink in the city, with plenty of places and ways to enjoy it. You can sip gin and tonics inside elaborate gin palaces, in a gin-themed hotel, or while cruising by Harrod’s on a vintage double-decker bus. Yes, please!
The Distillery, Portobello Road
Portobello Road is a popular destination in London, particularly on Saturdays when the famous market is in full swing. For a more relaxed experience, visit on a non-market day when you can leisurely explore the character-filled antique shops and make your way down the road to The Distillery, a paradise for gin enthusiasts.
The Distillery beckons gin lovers with its painted blue sign that shines like a vintage spirits bottle. You can pop in for a quick G&T, refreshing highball, cocktails and nibbles, or book an interactive experience and immerse yourself in all things gin. Housed in a former 19th-century pub, The Distillery is a multi-story building with several bars, a restaurant, private event rooms, a basement distillery, and even a gin-themed hotel!
Gin Experiences at The Distillery
The Ginstitute is The Distillery’s flagship experience and a must-do for gin lovers. This three-hour immersive session covers the history of gin, its production, and the ingredients used to make it. You’ll visit a small gin museum showcasing The Distillery’s collection of historic artifacts and will have the opportunity to create your own signature blend in a personalized bottle. Throughout the experience, you’ll get to enjoy a multitude of gin cocktails, leaving you wonderfully happy and hazy. This is THE gin experience in London and highly recommended if you can swing it. The cost is £120 per person, book online in advance.
If you’re short on time, book the Gin Masterclass for an interactive one-hour experience where your master “Ginstructor” will teach you how to perfectly craft five classic gin cocktails at home. And of course, there will be plenty of samples. The cost is £75 per person, book online in advance.
There are several other spirit-focused experiences you can book for deep dives into the world of whiskey, agave spirits, the martini, and even James Bond. All experiences should be booked in advance on The Distillery’s website (https://www.the-distillery.london/).
The Resting Room
The Resting Room on the ground floor is a timeless cocktail bar with an impressive selection of world spirits. The food menu is thoughtfully designed to complement the cocktail list, offering a range of British and international small and large plates made with local ingredients.
The Gin Hotel
If that’s not enough gin-soaked immersion for you, book a room in the Gin Hotel! Stumble up to The Distillery’s upper floors where they are happy to host you in one of four stylish and comfortable guest rooms, each named after a classic gin cocktail with gin-inspired decor, a stocked gin bar, and lovely views above Portobello Road. Nightly rates from £140 per night, book online in advance.
The Bottle Shop
Before you leave, stop by the Bottle Shop and pick up a special Portobello Road Gin blend to take home. My personal favorite is the savory Mediterranean gin in a gorgeous white bottle. A great way to remember and continue savoring your experience here!
Nearest Underground Station: Notting Hill Gate (to meander down Portobello Road) or Ladbroke Grove (direct to The Distillery)
City of London Distillery, The City
The City of London Distillery is in the heart of the oldest area of London just off Fleet Street and a short walk from St. Paul’s Cathedral. It’s the perfect spot for gin lovers to take a break from sightseeing and enjoy an afternoon G&T before the evening crowd sets in. Discover the home of Whitley Neill Gin with cocktails or a gin tasting at the stylish bar, or book one of their guided experiences.
The Distillery Tour & Gin Tasting is a one-hour experience that includes a welcome G&T, a distillery tour, and a 4-gin tasting flight. The cost is £25 and should be booked online in advance.
The Gin Lab experience is more immersive, guiding you through the distilling process and exploring different botanicals to design and create your very own gin blend. You’ll enjoy three drinks throughout the experience and will use a mini still to take your custom gin through the distillation process and into a personalized bottle. The cost is £125 and should be booked online in advance.
While you can find the original Whitley Neill London Dry Gin (the black bottle) in some stateside liquor stores, the full rainbow of fruity and floral blends is only available here.
Pro Tip: Pair this with a visit to the Punch Tavern gin palace less than one block away.
Nearest Underground Station: Blackfriars
Victorian Gin Palaces
Whatever you do, do not leave London without visiting a historic Victorian gin palace. They are a feast for the eyes and imagination!
Following its seedy past, gin of much better quality made a comeback in the Victorian era. It was so popular that ornately decorated “gin palaces” were built to drink it in. Why not, right?
Gin palaces were the only places where regular folks could drink alongside the aristocracy, and their splendid interior was something never before seen by the working class. The term ‘gin palace’ actually refers to a pub (not necessarily a gin joint) decorated in ornate Victorian style with features like etched glass and mirrors, mosaic tile, glittering chandeliers, carved ceilings, and intricate woodwork. The fact that much of this is still intact in many establishments around London (and beyond) should blow your mind.
Here are three of my favorite London ‘gin palaces’:
Viaduct Tavern, Holborn
Located a stone’s throw from London’s “Old Bailey” Central Criminal Court and the former site of the infamous Newgate Prison, the Viaduct Tavern has witnessed generations of drama and debauchery.
As with many of London’s drinking establishments, stories of ghostly experiences from staff and workers are plentiful. Some say that the pub’s cellars were used as jail cells for Newgate Prison and there were rumors of a tunnel connecting the two. There may have even been an opium den upstairs! For sure, the exact location of many grisly public executions can be seen from every window in the place. It is often regarded as one of London’s most haunted pubs.
At the bar, order a gin and tonic and watch the bartender chip your ice right off the block. Sit, sip, and marvel at the curved space with walls of mirrors and paintings of classical women. Can you find the painted woman with a gash on her back? It was inflicted by a drunken soldier’s bayonet during the First World War.
Also, notice the carved wood ‘toll booth’ near the kitchen. In order to curb employee theft, the (woman) proprietor would take your cash in exchange for drink tokens. Brilliant.
Pro Tip: Try an interesting gin here!
Nearest Underground Station: St. Paul’s
Princess Louise, Holborn
From the busy street outside, it’s easy to pass by Princess Louise without noticing the splendor within. The tile mosaic and sparkling mirror-lined entry is your first clue that you’re somewhere special.
Entering through the left door, take note of the “snugs” with etched glass “snob screens”. These partitions were originally meant to separate the better-off patrons from the “lesser sorts”, but now bring people together and tend to encourage conversation through a sense of shared domain.
The best time to enjoy the interior is early afternoon when you can have a quiet drink and wander around before the arrival of the evening crowd. It can also be fun to watch the atmosphere become livelier as the evening progresses, imagining Victorian Londoners enjoying their pints and gins in the same space centuries ago.
Princess Louise is a tied “Sam Smiths” pub which means all of their beer is from the Samuel Smith brewery and you can get a well-priced pint. The spirit selection is nothing spectacular – you can get a much better G&T elsewhere. Here, it’s all about the atmosphere.
Pro Tip: Men (and adventurous women) should check out the loo with its original marble urinals. They are Grade II listed which means they are legally protected from ever being altered or destroyed.
Nearest Underground Station: Holborn
Punch Tavern, Fleet Street
Originally called the Crown and Sugar Loaf, this historic pub changed its name to Punch Tavern in honor of regular patrons from nearby ‘Punch’ magazine on Fleet Street. The satirical publication’s editorial team would meet regularly here, often creating their witty content with pints in hand. You can bet that much of the magazine’s brilliance can be attributed to writers and illustrators who were half smashed down at the pub.
As you enter, pause to appreciate the gorgeous tiled entryway that welcomes you with glittering panache. The vaulted skylights keep the space light and airy during the day, contrasting beautifully with the dark wood bar and seating. There are etched and cut mirrors, solid marble surfaces, carved woodwork, and a mosaic-tiled floor. While much of the pub has undergone renovation and restoration, the decorated ceiling and fixed seating on the left are original and the ‘gin palace’ vibe is undoubtedly authentic.
There is an impressive selection of gins and whiskeys as well as cask ales, a nice wine list, and a reasonably-priced menu of English classics and imaginative pub fare. We thought the table service was impeccable, considering how busy the place was. Management appears to keep the show running smoothly.
Nearest Underground Station: Blackfriars
Take a Trip Back in Time
Mr. Fogg’s Gin Parlour, Covent Garden
Be transported to Victorian London at Mr. Fogg’s Gin Parlour! This hidden haven is located above Mr. Fogg’s Tavern in Covent Garden and is an exquisite place to enjoy a proper gin with premium tonics and fresh botanicals. The menu will set you off on an unforgettable around-the-world adventure. There are over 230 gins available to enjoy from the comfort of traditional upholstered furniture surrounded by eclectic antiques and trinkets. You can find rare and vintage gins here, too!
Gin Experiences at Mr. Fogg’s
Make a table reservation for drinks or book one of their special menus. “Tipples & Treats” (daily except Saturday) includes two cocktails and a slice of cake. The “Gin Safari” (every Saturday and Sunday) is a full gin experience where an expert ‘Ginthusiast’ will teach you about the history of gin alongside several tastings, fresh botanicals, and premium tonics with light nibbles. Be sure to book in advance – this is a popular place.
There are currently eight Mr. Fogg’s locations around London, each with a unique, immersive theme meant to transport you to the time when the eccentric British adventurer Phileas J. Fogg, Esq. made his epic journey ‘Around the World in 80 Days’. Mr. Fogg’s Dockside Drinkery & Distillery hosts a Gin Adventure on Saturdays with a nautical twist.
Pro Tip: Don’t leave without visiting the lovely loo on the tavern’s ground floor.
Nearest Underground Station: Leicester Square
Gin Lovers’ Afternoon ‘Tea’ on a Vintage Bus
Take a ride around London in a vintage double-decker bus while enjoying some tipples and treats! Brigit’s Bakery offers several tours on their fabulous bus, but my favorite is the Gin Lovers Afternoon Tea. The “Tea” refers to the colorful selection of savory and sweet treats you can enjoy while sipping on three different G&Ts from Slingsby Gin. Pretty sure there’s not a drop of tea anywhere on this bus.
Sit back, relax, and sip your gin while the bus passes by some of London’s most iconic landmarks – Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Royal Albert Hall, Harrod’s, and more. Can you think of anything more fun and fabulous?
This is a great thing to do in London with your gin-loving girlfriends or on a fun evening date. Our bus was filled with several groups of women and a few couples. The girl packs were having a ball. Just be sure whoever you bring along actually enjoys gin – some of the men on board didn’t seem so sure. But, everyone left with a huge smile and feeling fine.
Book in advance on the Brigit’s Bakery website. Choose seats on the top deck – you will see much more from up there!
Pro Tip: Our bus departed from the Grand Hotel in Trafalgar where we enjoyed a glass of bubbly and used the facilities before boarding. There’s no toilet on board and you’re drinking for the whole ride so prepare accordingly!
Nearest Underground Station: Charing Cross or Embankment (Trafalgar), Victoria Station (Victoria Coach Station)
The Best Bottle Shop in Soho
Looking for brands for your gin shelf that you can’t find in the States? Gerry’s Wine & Spirits is one of London’s best independent bottle shops. The friendly, knowledgeable proprietor and staff are happy to guide you through their impressive selection of international and rare spirits. Don’t be shy – since you can’t browse independently in the small space, let them help you discover your next favorite bottle from their crowded shelves.
If you can’t fly home with a full-size bottle, they have a nice variety of miniatures that are carry-on approved. Or, shop their website with international shipping.
Here are some interesting British craft gins to consider (inventory varies):
Old Bakery Gin
CBA Marrakech Gin
Ableforth Bathtub Gin
Hoxton Pink Gin
Jaffa Cake Gin
King of Soho Variorum Pink Gin
Ealing Gin
Silent Pool Gin
Hepple Gin
Hayman’s Sloe Gin
Pro Tip: If the shop isn’t busy, have a chat with Michael, the proprietor. He’s a bit of a legend in the West End and his knowledge of spirits is encyclopedic!
Nearest Underground Station: Leicester Square
Junipalooza
For serious gin enthusiasts, Junipalooza is the largest gin festival in the UK offering an array of over 100 gins to sample directly from dozens of distillers (pace yourself, mate). You can enjoy unlimited samples (as long as you’re in good shape), order gin cocktails at the bar, or attend a free masterclass. Hosted by the Spirits Society, this event is a special opportunity to meet the makers behind your favorite craft gins and discover new brands to love. Plan your trip to coincide with this annual event! Advance tickets are available from the Spirits Society.